Citadel Colors

Citadel Paints – How to Start (Without Stress or Mistakes)

Your first paints will determine if painting hooks you. Let’s do it smartly.

Paints are not "just paints" – Warhammer has a system

Newbies often think paints are just paints. But for miniatures, a different rule applies: you build layers.

Not because it’s overly complicated, but because light and shadow turn a figure into a model – not a flat piece of plastic.

Once you understand the difference between base layer, shade, and highlight, painting becomes much more fun.

Citadel paints have their own system for this: Base → Shade → Layer → (Dry / Technical / Contrast) → Done.

Good news? You don’t need to use everything. For your first figure, 5–7 paints are enough.

What a beginner really needs

1) Base
For the first layer – covers plastic.
2) Shade
Creates shadow and depth.
3) Layer
Brings back light and details.
4) (optional) Dry / Contrast / Technical
For effects and speeding up work.
PW TIP: If you’re a total beginner, the best approach is: Base + Shade + Layer = painless win.

Types of Citadel Paints and Their Uses

1) Base – for first layer

Base paints have more pigment. They cover gray or black plastic and create a “foundation surface.”

PW TIP: How not to ruin them
Thin with a little water or medium. If you don’t, the surface will be rough.
Citadel Base Paints

2) Shade – shadow and depth

Liquid paints that flow into recesses and create shadows. This does 80% of the work for you.

PW TIP: Why it works
Shade “reads” the model’s geometry for you. Everything instantly looks more detailed.
Citadel Shade Paints

3) Layer – highlights and light

Applied over Base paint. Creates transitions, highlights, edges, and fine details.

PW TIP: Don’t skip directly from Base to a light Layer. The difference will be too harsh.
Citadel Layer Paints

4) Dry – for dry brushing

Gel consistency → sticks to brush hairs → ideal for armor ridges, fur, stone, skulls.

PW TIP: Always wipe dry brush on paper so only a tiny amount of pigment applies.
Citadel Dry Paints

5) Contrast – "quick painting"

Applied over a light base, it does Base + Shade + light Layer at once. Perfect for getting to play fast.

PW TIP: Works best on organic surfaces (skin, cloaks, fur, cloth).
Citadel Contrast Paints

6) Technical – effects

Blood, rust, glow, cracks, swamp, etc. Technical paints make the model “come alive.”

Citadel Technical

7) Sprays – primer + base in one

The fastest way to start. Pick a background color, spray, and you have the foundation.

Citadel Sprays

Recommended paint selection for first miniatures

We keep it universal so it works for anything:

  • Abaddon Black – Base (basic black)
  • Corax White – Base (light primer base)
  • Leadbelcher – Base (metals)
  • Wraithbone – Base (contrast-friendly undercoat)
  • Agrax Earthshade – Shade (shadow for everything)
  • Nuln Oil – Shade (metal & machinery shadow)
  • Runefang Steel – Layer (lighter metal)
  • Rhinox Hide – Base (leather / boots / bags)
  • Bugman’s Glow – Base (skin)
  • Seraphim Sepia – Shade (warmer tones)
PW TIP: These 10 paints will cover Space Marines, Orks, Stormcasts, Skaven, Empire, and Underworlds gangs stress-free.

Most common newbie mistakes

  • Direct from pot → no thinning.
  • White primer → no Shade → flat model.
  • Shade too dark → details lost.
  • Trying to paint everything at once → overwhelm.
  • Buying 20+ paints → using 6.
PW TIP: Best workflow: Base → Shade → Layer → done. This gives 90% of the result with minimal effort.

How to care for paints (so they don’t dry out)

Paints are not disposable – taking care saves money.

  • Don’t leave the pot open longer than necessary.
  • Add a drop of medium occasionally (not water).
  • Don’t shake – stir (shaking creates bubbles).
  • Don’t store in sunlight or near a radiator.
PW TIP: Biggest killer of paints is heat. Hobby box in a car in summer = instant set ruin.