Citadel Brushes for Beginners
Brushes: the most expensive thing a beginner often “destroys” first
You might already have your first box of Warhammer, paints, and enthusiasm at home. You pick a brush from a stationery store, dip it all the way to the metal ferrule… and after a few days it looks like a broom.
Here comes reality: a good brush is half the battle. This doesn’t mean you need a professional set worth hundreds right away. But when you know which brush to use for what and how to take care of it, painting becomes easier, faster, and the result looks better than you expected.
Citadel brushes are designed specifically for miniatures – exactly what you’ll be doing most at your table. In this article, we’ll show you:
- the types of Citadel brushes (Base, Layer, Shade, Drybrush, Scenery)
- which three/four are enough to start
- how to use them so they last as long as possible
- PW practical tips: what each brush is ideal for and how not to ruin it over a weekend
- a few extra tips for those who want to go “beyond the guide”
Understanding Citadel brushes
Citadel has several main brush ranges, each matching what you do with paint on a model:
For the first layer of paint. Covers larger areas quickly while still giving good control.
PW tip: Use them on armor, cloaks, and bigger model areas.
Base Brushes
For finer layers, highlights, and details. Thin tip, precise strokes.
PW tip: Ideal when you want your model to look “tabletop ready”.
Layer Brushes
Designed for washes/shading. Holds more paint and helps the wash flow where it should.
PW tip: Saves your nerves when shading entire models.
Shade Brushes
For drybrushing – highlighting edges and textures.
PW tip: Quickly creates effective highlights.
Drybrush Brushes
For terrain, large areas, and bases. Don’t worry about “ruining” it like a fine detail brush.
PW tip: Best friend for textured paints, drybrushing stone, ground, ruins.
Scenery Brushes
Which Citadel brushes to get first (minimum that makes sense)
If you’re starting from scratch, we recommend a simple “starter trio”:
- 1× Base (M) – first layer, model foundation
- 1× Layer (M) – highlights, smaller areas, details
- 1× Shade (M) – quick shading for the whole figure
This set covers 90% of regular painting – from the first Space Marine to a smaller monster. Drybrush and Scenery can be added later, once you have a few models behind you.
Base Brushes – Your First “Worker”
Base brushes are made to lay down the first proper layer of paint on a model. You’re not worrying about micro-details here – the goal is to cover the surface quickly and evenly.
Ideal for:
- Space Marine armor
- Cloaks, armor plates, large fabric areas
- Larger organic areas (monster skin, wings, carapace)
How to use them:
- Thin the paint slightly (a bit of water on the palette)
- Apply 2 thinner layers rather than one “thick” layer
- Don’t use the Base brush for the tiniest details
Ideal for: first layer on large areas, where you want to progress quickly and feel the model “moving forward”.
How not to ruin it:
• Dip only about half the bristles, never all the way to the ferrule.
• Don’t use it for drybrushing, textures, or glue.
• Don’t let paint dry in the brush – rinse periodically in water.
Layer Brushes – Where the “Wow Effect” Happens
Layer brushes are more precise, finer, and have a thin tip. Here you work on highlights, edge accenting, and details that make the model visually appealing.
Ideal for:
- Edge highlights
- Details on weapons, helmets, symbols, clean lines
- Smaller areas where you don’t want to overpaint
How to use them:
- Thin the paint more than for Base – let it flow nicely
- Work mostly with the tip, not the full side of the brush
- Clean more frequently – small amounts of paint but controlled
Ideal for: moments when you just want “a bit of highlight” – armor edge, eye, small chapter symbol.
How not to ruin it:
• Never drybrush with it – that technique is for another brush type.
• Don’t press hard into the model – let the paint do the work.
• Always wash it properly after painting and reshape the tip with your fingers.
Shade Brushes – Quick Shading Without Chaos
Everyone loves shade (wash) paints. One stroke, and the details “pop.” Shade brushes are designed exactly for this – to guide the wash into recesses without leaving it everywhere.
Ideal for:
- Shading the whole model (e.g., Agrax Earthshade on armor)
- Recesses on armor, face, textured surfaces
- Quick path to a “tabletop ready” look
How to use them:
- Pick up a bit more shade paint, but not so much that the brush “drips”
- Apply so the paint flows into details but doesn’t pool
- Use the tip to “wipe off excess” from large areas
Ideal for: the first “magical moment” – apply a wash and suddenly the model gains depth and contrast.
How not to ruin it:
• Don’t use Shade brushes for thick paints (Base/Layer).
• Don’t let shade paint dry in the brush – especially at the root.
• Rinse after work, gently wipe on paper towel, and reshape the tip.
Drybrush Brushes – Quick Texture Highlights
Drybrushing is a technique that can create beautiful effects with minimal effort. Citadel has special Drybrush brushes with shorter, stiffer bristles – perfect for this.
Ideal for:
- Edge highlights on armor, furs, stones
- Textures on terrain, ruins, bases
- Quickly “reviving” dull surfaces
How to use them:
- Pick up paint, wipe most off on paper – then apply to the model
- Gently stroke over edges and raised areas
- Prefer multiple thin drybrush layers over one thick one
Ideal for: stone ruins, bony structures, hair, fur, armor edges – anywhere texture “guides” where paint should stick.
How not to ruin it:
• Even though tougher than Layer/Base, always wash after painting.
• Don’t apply very thick, undiluted paint straight from the bottle.
• Don’t use it for fine details – that’s what other brushes are for.
Scenery Brushes – Heavy Work, No Stress
Scenery brushes are the “bulldozer” of brushes. Not for fine details, but for terrain, large areas, and textured paints.
Ideal for:
- Textured paint on bases
- Painting terrain – stones, ruins, buildings
- Large areas where detail doesn’t matter much
How to use them:
- Use plenty of paint – it’s not detail work
- Great combined with Drybrush for final highlights
- Don’t be afraid to “work roughly” – that’s what it’s made for
Ideal for: everything that would hurt your heart to use an expensive Layer brush on – terrain, bases, bigger plastic pieces.
How not to ruin it:
• Even though they handle more, don’t let textured paint dry in the brush.
• Wash thoroughly after use so no dried paste remains.
• Use intentionally for “messy work,” not fine details.
How to Take Care of Brushes to Make Them Last Longer
Good news: most brushes aren’t ruined by “bad quality,” but by bad usage habits. Once you get used to a few simple habits, your brushes will last much longer.
Basic care rules:
- Dip only the tip – paint shouldn’t reach the ferrule.
- Clean regularly – rinse the brush every few minutes.
- Use cold or lukewarm water – not hot.
- After cleaning, wipe on a paper towel and shape the tip with your fingers.
- Store brushes bristle-up, not down.
Quick post-painting routine:
- Rinse the brush in water until almost no paint comes off.
- Gently wipe on a towel/paper napkin.
- If you have brush soap, swirl a few times and rinse.
- Reshape the tip with your fingers.
- Let dry bristle-up in a cup or stand.
Most Common Beginner Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
- One brush for everything
Base, Shade, Drybrush, glue… all with one. Result: brush lasts a weekend. - Too thick paint
Paint clogs deep in bristles, harder to clean, and hurts the model result. - Forgotten brush in water
Bristles bend and stay that way. This is the “silent killer” of brushes. - Drybrushing with fine Layer/Base brush
Fastest way to turn a beautiful brush into a broom. - No regular cleaning
Cleaning only at the end is often too late.
For Those Who Want to Go Further (Advanced Tips)
Working with paint thinning
The finer the brush (Layer), the more worthwhile it is to thin the paint. It doesn’t need to flow like water, but should spread obediently, not create lumpy layers.
Palette – wet palette vs. classic
If painting grips you, consider a wet palette. Paint doesn’t dry as fast, brushes are less stressed, and Base/Layer work is more comfortable.
Brush separation by “cleanliness”
- Set A: only for paints – Base/Layer/Shade.
- Set B: for textures, pigments, craft stuff.
This prevents accidentally transferring tiny bits of textured paint into Space Marine details.
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